![]() We all recognize this as the flushing sound that an unmodified standpipe (or out of adjustment Durso/Stockman) makes. If it can not pull air, it pulls more water and creates a siphon that quickly empties the overflow box. ![]() Water falling down through a pipe will pull air with it. The Durso and Stockman modifications are simply means of changing where the air enters the standpipe. It quickly become clear that all of these methods still produce noise and that the quieter they are, the less stable they are. I attempted several Durso and Stockman style modifications and many variants thereof. To make a long story short, I was unable to silence the overflow. Based on observation and available data (some of it Anthony’s own) I agree with his conclusions. Anthony is a huge proponent of maximizing surface skimming. With some advice from Anthony Calfo (who is also a local club member!) I settled upon a coast-to-coast overflow design, A.K.A a Calfo Overflow. ![]() Furthermore, during the initial setup phases of my system I had a few small floods.Īfter doing a lot of research I learned that long overflow boxes are desirable for their superb surface skimming abilities. Noise of any kind is simply not an option that I can live with. The equipment side of the tank is a small room adjacent (and open) to my home office. My tank is an in-wall design that is setup in the rear wall of my home theater. In addition to the noise and instability, most types of standpipes introduce large volumes of bubbles into the sump that find their way to the return pump and back into the display. Many a reefer loses sleep at night due to noise or worries of a flood caused by a malfunctioning or clogged overflow. The most common problems are noise and reliability. If you find bubbles forming, it could be a variety of things from too little flow to microbubble build up.There are many types of overflow setups for use in aquaria, most have inherent design flaws or shortcomings that we just accept and live with. Once the siphon is created it is important to keep air bubbles from forming in the U-tube. Once all the air is removed the airline tubing must be removed or submerged. You may be required to fill either the internal or external box with more water as the siphon is created. Replace the U-tube into the overflow making sure that the airline tubing is at the apex of the bend and using a pump like a Tom's Aqualifter to suck the air out of the tube until it is replaced with water. Remove the U-tube and place one end of the airline tubing into the U-tube. Start by filling the aquarium until water flows into the intake box, and then using a cup fill the external box with water until the U-tube end is covered. Just lower the overflow box onto your aquarium and then connect your favorite type of plumbing to the included 1" bulkheads.Ĭan be done with a 1-foot piece of airline tubing. Hang on back overflows do require more monitoring and safety precautions to be in place, but can be completely reliable if installed properly and maintained regularly. Installation only takes a couple of minutes, and the PF-1000 only requires 3" of clearance outside the tank to drain water down to a sump, refugium, or wet/dry filter. In most cases, we would recommend drilling your aquarium and using an internal overflow like the Eshopps Eclipse, but in some situations, a HOB style overflow may be the best option. Traditional overflows require you to drill holes in your aquarium where Eshopps PF HOB overflows use a siphon to draw water over the wall of the tank without any modifications to your aquarium. Adding a sump to a tank will allow you to hide equipment and while adding water volume making your tank more stable. ![]() Add an overflow to any aquarium with Eshopps PF series of hang on back overflows.
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